Does anyone sell biab kits?

[Twistedfinger]

With all those challanger hops you could brew a coniston bluebird. Not much of a sweet finish with an IBU of 36-38 but a classic.

[sbond10]

What else would I need ?

[Twistedfinger]

For 23L into fermenter using the profile of my equipment and 83% end of boil efficiency:

OG 1.039
FG 1.011
ABV 3.6%
IBU 37 (tinseth)

Mash 66c 90 Minute
Boil 90 minute


3.8kg Maris otter
0.2 Kg Crystal

90 min - 36g 7.7%AA Challanger
15 min - 21g 7.7%AA Challanger
0 Min - 9g 7.7%AA Challanger ( these can be added when the wort is at 80c for better aroma )

[sbond10]

Okies ill start pulling together the voile and malts and stuff for this am I steeping the crystal and pale malts togther ?

[Twistedfinger]

Okies ill start pulling together the voile and malts and stuff for this am I steeping the crystal and pale malts togther ?

All together,

[sbond10]

Ok ill give it a whirl once Christmas is out the way and my wallets recovered ...

[crafty john]

Ask Santa to bring you a bigger pot....

Maybe we should have a LIKE button like Facebook

[sbond10]

No cause it will get broken with ditches posts

[jonnyt]

I continually got 65% efficiency with BIAB. Books like GWs work on 75% so I'd recommend adjusting recipes accordingly.

[sbond10]

So 10% more of everything ?

[kebabman]

Unfortunately the inefficiency is worse than that. Its 10 over 65 x by 100 which is a 15.4% increase in fermentables required. If you are following a clone recipe for a certain beer and you increase everything by 15.4% and your brew contains anything other than pale malt, these other malts may become too dominant.
Personally I would keep all the non base malts the same and use some brewing software to work out by how much to increase the pale malt quantity.

[john_drummer]

or you could buy a bigger pan.
Mine is a 32L job from Brupaks, readily available for around £70. I regularly do 19L brews with a 26L starting volume. 23L brews need a starting volume of 30L, which is quite close to overflowing when you add the grain, so if I do a 23L batch, I start with 26L and add another 4L before the boil

[Twistedfinger]

I continually got 65% efficiency with BIAB. Books like GWs work on 75% so I'd recommend adjusting recipes accordingly.

Hi Jonny

I'm not having a go here I'm just interested in to why your efficiency is so low and if there is a specific reason.

GW calculates his efficiency as End of Boil and he states that that is a conservative figure and that most brewers should exceed that figure. I get 80% + end of boil efficiency and only dip below this figure when brewing high gravity beers, for a normal GW recipe 80% is a realistic target and will probably be exceeded. Are you comparing eggs with eggs here, when I see someone quoting an efficiency like 65% I assume it either a high gravity beer or its the into packaging %.

Is there something in your set up that is dragging it down ? do you maxi biab or full volume ?

Just curious mate,

Cheers

TF

[sbond10]

or you could buy a bigger pan.
Mine is a 32L job from Brupaks, readily available for around £70. I regularly do 19L brews with a 26L starting volume. 23L brews need a starting volume of 30L, which is quite close to overflowing when you add the grain, so if I do a 23L batch, I start with 26L and add another 4L before the boil

I've only just bought a 19 litre pan and then you've gotta start thinking 70 quid for a pan then how are you gonna heat 32 litres if water ? So more expense might as go all grain

Also I have gw' s book and remember that some of um are 19 litre jobs could this be a straight swap for maxi biab or would the 21 litre recipes but brewed to 19 to cover the lesser efficacy s of biab

[Twistedfinger]

GW's recipes are end of boil volumes. You could use the 19L ones straight but you may have to hold a bit of water back to prevent spillage. Thinking about it if you want more beer you may as well go for a 23L brew as you will have to hold some back anyway so it may well as be 5L as 2L.