Secondary Fermentation

[burgo]

I have been brewing kits for some years now. Using a standard fermentation bin and transferring to corny kegs thereafter.

I have started to wonder if there is any mileage in transferring to a secondary fermentation bin to remove a lot of the waste product reaching the Corny as the first few pints are cloudy. If I do take this route is there any real advantage in giving it a further period to mature in the secondary bin and if so will I need to add more fermentables if I do.

My apologies if this sounds a daft question or had been addressed before

[Monkeybrew]

I don't use Cornies, but as they are force carbed, It would seem logical to rack into a secondary FV after 14 days of primary and then add auxiliary finings for a couple of days before racking again to a Corny.

MB

[burgo]

Hi MB

Thanks for the prompt response.

Would you add additional sugars at the secondary stage, also how long would be reasonable to leave for this stage ?

Regards
B

[seymour]

No need for additional sugar. If your goal is clearer, more polished, harmoniously conditioned beer, then yes a secondary fermentor step is an easy way to improve matters. I've noticed that seems to be a step most US homebrewers perform, but most UK homebrewers do not. I've been skipping that step for my recent English-styled ales, and nonethess getting excellent results, but I'll freely admit I'm drinking it fresher than I used to and I don't care much about clarity.

For some great instructions, read John Palmer's How to Brew section about this, and be sure to click "Next Page" at the bottom a couple times to take it all in.

[neillf]

Hi Seymour, I read the section in JP's How to Brew that you mention, would you suggest 2 weeks primary fermentation and then rack to a secondary for a week to clear and dry hopping? Or would a week in the primary be sufficient with the additional week in secondary? As well as great tasting beer my goal would be as you listed. Cheers, N.

[seymour]

Hi Seymour, I read the section in JP's How to Brew that you mention, would you suggest 2 weeks primary fermentation and then rack to a secondary for a week to clear and dry hopping? Or would a week in the primary be sufficient with the additional week in secondary? As well as great tasting beer my goal would be as you listed. Cheers, N.

Yes and/or yes. It's a learned thing, based on observing your real-life fermentation, which varies by yeast strain, temperature, original gravity, etc. Most people attempt to rack from primary to secondary right when the yeast head starts collapsing back into solution, for that reason it's especially convenient to use a glass carboy as a primary fermentor. If you don't time it just right, though, it's not the end of the world, it just takes longer for the yeast to fall all the way out for perfectly clear beer (which I don't prize anyway.) Cheers!

[lee1]

dont know how to highlight what you said seymoure but drinking some english beers young do taste better even if hazy but why

[seymour]

dont know how to highlight what you said seymoure but drinking some english beers young do taste better even if hazy but why

In my opinion, a little suspended yeast is delicious. It gives the beer some extra body and mouthfeel, sometimes a subtle dusty or chalky sensation (in a good way), perhaps even contributing to those nice, complex, slightly hard mineral water impressions. Live yeast is full of healthy B vitamins and beneficial probiotic/digestive functions, too. I believe strongly that this pursuit of perfectly clear lifeless beer was a trick played on us by modern megalithic lager breweries. From my research, clarity doesn't appear to have been a serious consideration for historical brewers, nor was it used as a measurement of beer quality.