Brewlabs yeast slant question?

[molehill]

I have recently started using brewlabs yeast slants, now I am making up and using my own slants. Previously, I had been using dry yeast, mostly Nottingham yeast. I found the dry yeast dropped out and stuck to the bottom of the bottle really well but lacked the flavour I am now getting from stepping up live yeast slants. But since using live yeast, I have found that any sediment during the priming doesn't drop and stick so well to the bottom of the bottle. Maybe it is the particular yeast I am using, since I am trying to produce a Harvey's BB clone and using Sussex 1? My next attempt will be with Whitelabs WL002 since I have heard that drops out and sticks better.

What I would really like to know is.... would it make a difference if I used some finnings prior to bottling? Or is it that the brewlabs Sussex 1 always has this issue?

[Belter]

I imagine it's the yeast as all yeast flocculate differently. I haven't used that particular yeast. Notty is known for dropping out well and sticking to the bottom of the bottle.

[OvenHiker]

...and fining is generally a no-no if you intend to bottle. You risk ending up with fluffy bottoms!

[Dave S]

Since using a temp controlled fridge and crash cooling prior to kegging, (don't really bottle apart from maybe 2 or 3 in a batch), I haven't really had any clearing problems. Before that almost every brew was cloudy - even with finings.

[Rick_UK]

Yes it's more down to the characteristics of the yeast than anything. If using a low floc yeast fining will drop more of it out before bottling which should help, but any sediment will still be loose.

Rick

[molehill]

It sounds to me like I am stuck (excuse the pun) with this problem and there is nothing I can do to prevent it apart from using a similar yeast like WL002. It appears from the two occasions of using Sussex one, it is never in a hurry to show signs of fermentation and I have to pour from the bottle very carefullly and waste a portion.

[gregorach]

Well, there is one surefire solution to the problem... Fine out all of the primary yeast prior to bottling, and bottle using a different, more flocculent yeast. It's a bit of a pain in the backside though.

[Matt]

IMHO I think you are right, its down to the Sussex strain - its specced as variable flocculation. IIRC SiHoltye documented this strain as being a PITA to clear.

[Martin G]

Or get a pressure barrel. Condition until happy with carbonation and clarity. Release lid and carefully syphon into bottles or spray starsan into the tap and bottle from that through a pipe (ensuring pressure released and lid cracked open). You can get pipe to fit by using different diameters and heating them to soften and shape.

[molehill]

Or get a pressure barrel. Condition until happy with carbonation and clarity. Release lid and carefully syphon into bottles or spray starsan into the tap and bottle from that through a pipe (ensuring pressure released and lid cracked open). You can get pipe to fit by using different diameters and heating them to soften and shape.

A very interesting concept and one I never considered, although it does add another stage to the process and therefore another risk of contamination. Could you explain how you would do this so that I can do some research i.e. the type of pressure barrel etc. As I would imagine that if it has completed carbonation, then bottled, the beer would lose its carbonation? At the moment my plan was to see how well the Sussex 1 yeast performs, then repeat the exact brew, changing only the yeast to a WLP002 and see how they compare in flavour and more importantly, which one drops the best.... I think we all know the answer, but it would still be an interesting experiment.

[bob3000]

crash cool it. stick the fermenter outside in the garage or something for a week. this should help most of the yeast drop out.

[orlando]

I would imagine that if it has completed carbonation, then bottled, the beer would lose its carbonation?

It probably will. However the idea is a good one if you stop short of priming. Store in the pressure barrel until clear, remember to vent occasionally, then rack to bottling bucket with priming syrup as usual. If the beer is exceptionally clear I've found it takes a little longer than usual to carbonate because of the lower levels of yeast present. The extra bonus with this method is that beer ages quicker in bulk so you can bring on beer quicker doing this, particularly useful if you have a hoppy IPA and want it to mellow down a little before drinking.

[Martin G]

Or get a pressure barrel. Condition until happy with carbonation and clarity. Release lid and carefully syphon into bottles or spray starsan innthe tap and bottle from that through a pipe (ensuring pressure released and lid cracked open). You can erent diameters and heating them to soften and shape.

A very interesting concept and one I never considered, although it does add another stage to the process and therefore another risk of contamination. Could you explain how you would do this so that I can do some research i.e. the type of pressure barrel etc. As I would imagine that if it has completed carbonation, then bottled, the beer would lose its carbonation? At the moment my plan was to see how well the Sussex 1 yeast performs, then repeat the exact brew, changing only the yeast to a WLP002 and see how they compare in flavour and more importantly, which one drops the best.... I think we all know the answer, but it would still be an interesting experiment.

Thanks, most of my beer goes into a cask or king keg, but I usually brew a little bit over for bottles. For bottling I have got a 10L budget keg that I bought yonks ago from the place that could not be named that I now use if I can fill, but have also used old 3l brown PET bottles with the lid cracked (can squeeze to judge how much to crack lid). As Orlando says you can prime again, I normally just go straight to bottle. The main thing I have found is to not disturb the beer by moving or trying to fill bottles under pressure (without counter pressure system). Slowly release the pressure by undoing the lid then syphon or drain without trying to get every last drop. I have tried same with temp control but I had to move the pressure vessel and it lifted sediment. I am sure the traditional way of bottling is better, but this works for me.

[molehill]

All your comments certainly give me food for thought.... And I thank you!
One of the benefits of have a beer fridge is that I can accurately control temperatures. I usually crash cool for 24 hours then transfer to the bottling bucket with conditioning syrup added and bottle an hour later. I usually leave in the FV for 14 days....I am now thinking that fermentation should well and truly be complete within 10 days, so I plan to crash cool for 4 days, followed by bottling in my usual way?

I am not ready to move to kegging or transferring to a pressure vessel just yet as I lack the confidence and never bothered researching this side of brewing.... But it is something I will attempt in the future. I have only been brewing for a year so happy with my slow-slow-slower approach. I never believed I would venture into live yeast, let alone making my own yeast slants already!

I would be very interested if anyone has a Harvey's genuine yeast they have slanted and would be prepared to donate or sell to me? My dream is still to bring a close Harvey's BB clone to the Midlands!!

I am now looking for a decent bench top capper at a reasonable price since I lack confidence in the plastic twin handled cappers... Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

[molehill]

As stated earlier I plan to repeat my Harvey's clone attempt this weekend, the only change will be using a WLP002 instead of a Brewlabs Sussex 1 yeast. The one thing I still haven't got my head around is why my post boil AG was down and liquor was up? This is the first time my numbers have been out and the first time I have I used a 60 minute boil.... Is this the reason and is there a way of adjusting the initial brew calculations?

I assumed I could step up the WLP002 and started with adding the yeast to 300ml of prepared wort for 12 hours, then stepping it up to 1.8lt for 24 hours both on my stir plate. I then plan to crash cool for 24-36 hours, then make ready to pitch on Sunday. I also made up 6 slants using yeast from the original supply bottle. I would appreciate any comments on what I have implemented or planned?