no chill
Re: no chill
That's what I used to do when I lived in Cardiff and Newcastle in my former life, works ok for most of the year as long as you are prepared to pitch next day.
One advantage of no chilling in cubes is that it lets you get ahead with your brewing and build up some stock, say if you are on holiday. It also lets you pitch when you want to.
One advantage of no chilling in cubes is that it lets you get ahead with your brewing and build up some stock, say if you are on holiday. It also lets you pitch when you want to.
Re: no chill
Cheers BOC - should have added the FV has been thoroughly star-sanned. Obvs.Beer O'Clock wrote:This ^^^simco999 wrote:I just run the boiled wort into an FV, lid on and let it chill overnight.
Never fails - just pitch when down to 20 degs.
- Cpt.Frederickson
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Re: no chill
I used to no chill, and since switching to an immersion chiller I've noticed...little or no difference. Except being able to pitch the yeast that day.
As to hops in the cube, I used to add my flame out hops to the cube and runn the hot wort in onto them. Leave to cool. Worked pretty well.
As to hops in the cube, I used to add my flame out hops to the cube and runn the hot wort in onto them. Leave to cool. Worked pretty well.
The Hand of Doom Brewery and Meadery
Fermenting -
Conditioning - Meads - Raspberry Melomel yeast test, Vanilla Cinnamon Metheglyn, Orange Melomel.
Drinking - Youngs AAA Kit; Leatherwood Traditional Mead, Cyser, Ginger Metheglyn.
Planning - Some kits until I can get back to AG, then a hoppy porter, Jim's ESB, some American Red.
Fermenting -
Conditioning - Meads - Raspberry Melomel yeast test, Vanilla Cinnamon Metheglyn, Orange Melomel.
Drinking - Youngs AAA Kit; Leatherwood Traditional Mead, Cyser, Ginger Metheglyn.
Planning - Some kits until I can get back to AG, then a hoppy porter, Jim's ESB, some American Red.
Re: no chill
[quote="simco999"]I just run the boiled wort into an FV and let it chill overnight - leaving the lids on cracked open.
Never fails - just pitch when down to room temp.[/quote]
Do you oxygenate the wort first before you pitch or is that done beforehand when you run the boiled wort into the FV
Never fails - just pitch when down to room temp.[/quote]
Do you oxygenate the wort first before you pitch or is that done beforehand when you run the boiled wort into the FV

- Beer O'Clock
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Re: no chill
Having said that, I've noticed an "off" taste in my last couple of brews. Nothing close to undrinkable but short of perfection. My thinking process has suggested that as the wort is cooling, it sucks air into the FV. I am scrupulous with my cleaning regime and have decided that to eliminate another risk factor, I will try the cube. Bought a couple this afternoon.simco999 wrote:Cheers BOC - should have added the FV has been thoroughly star-sanned. Obvs.Beer O'Clock wrote:This ^^^simco999 wrote:I just run the boiled wort into an FV, lid on and let it chill overnight.
Never fails - just pitch when down to 20 degs.
I'm not saying that this is the cause but it is the an area that I will test and get back to you.
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Re: no chill
If you are going to try the cubes then give this video a look as you may find it to be of interest regarding technique.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZFSAVquvCg
Cheers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZFSAVquvCg
Cheers
"Work is the curse of the drinking class"
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Re: no chill
I have noticed the opposite. I have no chilled for over a year, then last year got a plate chiller. Noticed a difference in nearly all styles of beer. Late hopped beers are obvious one. Can't do it the same with no chill. I found my dark beers had a stale taste and missed the rich chocolate and coffee flavours from dark malts. Also difficult to make a really clean low IBU beer.Cpt.Frederickson wrote:I used to no chill, and since switching to an immersion chiller I've noticed...little or no difference. Except being able to pitch the yeast that day.
As to hops in the cube, I used to add my flame out hops to the cube and runn the hot wort in onto them. Leave to cool. Worked pretty well.
My best no chill beers where always the ones with loads of dry hops, this I assume covered any other small faults.
I'm not saying No chill is terrible and no one should do it, the differences are sometimes quite small and you can make a good beer this way but I just wanted to give the other side of the story IMO.
Re: no chill
Interesting takes guys,
I am just about to do my first BIAB moving from 3V.
I have a chiller etc but might try no-chill. I am really interested in cutting the process back as much as possible then gradually add different things back in, see what is real and what is just talk.
I sometimes feel that we mimic the pros but loose the reason they do what they do, sometimes I think most of what the pros do is about efficiency on a commercial scale. Most important for them is time, they dont want wort sitting around etc. If I can find a suitable cube type thing ill try out no chill.
I am just about to do my first BIAB moving from 3V.
I have a chiller etc but might try no-chill. I am really interested in cutting the process back as much as possible then gradually add different things back in, see what is real and what is just talk.
I sometimes feel that we mimic the pros but loose the reason they do what they do, sometimes I think most of what the pros do is about efficiency on a commercial scale. Most important for them is time, they dont want wort sitting around etc. If I can find a suitable cube type thing ill try out no chill.
Re: no chill
Posted and for less than seven quid. I got one of these and it works a treat.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-New-25L-25 ... 1056721678
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-New-25L-25 ... 1056721678
Re: no chill
Ha ha Daf, I literally just got something similar, I nearly went for those.
I opted for 2x 20L as I tend to always undershoot my starting volume and water down pre ferm where required. For my setup I was worried about the headspeace in the Jerry so it was the 20L.
Plan is to be doing a double length boil soon BIAB. I can only ferment 20-23L at a time so one can keep for a few weeks in these.
I opted for 2x 20L as I tend to always undershoot my starting volume and water down pre ferm where required. For my setup I was worried about the headspeace in the Jerry so it was the 20L.
Plan is to be doing a double length boil soon BIAB. I can only ferment 20-23L at a time so one can keep for a few weeks in these.