leaky gas

[subfaction]

I'm struggling to get confidence that I can leave my co2 tank connected without it leaking, and hoping you chaps can shed some light...

I've got one of the 6 product gas management boards from norm, complete with high pressure hose.

I've fixed the tank to regulator nicely, with a rubber washer in the end. To test I'm closing all the product lines, and opening the co2 bottle valve. That pressurises the board, then I'm turning off the bottle and coming back in 12/24 hours to check the gauges.

I take the three normal gauges should remain at the same level if I have no leaks, but what about the high-pressure gauge, is it normal for that to drop down or does that indicate a leak?

many thanks

.sub

[Jim]

If your system is completely airtight, the HP gauge will stay pressurised, so yes, it indicates a leak.

I never, ever leave the bottle turned on between sessions though - it's asking to lose the lot to a leak.

[subfaction]

That's what I thought, thanks Jim. I'm hoping to get it air tight so I can carb up kegs by leaving them connected, rather than the high psi route. The worry is the board and hose should be air tight, if not I'm not sure where to look, I don't want to put the whole board under water, or cover with soapy water...

[rossi74]

Just give the joints a spray with soapy water. Nothing should get inside as a sealed joint won't leak and any leaking joint will be forcing co2 out and any liquid coming int contact with it. You'll be fine.

[subfaction]

Hmm this is getting annoying now, I've done the soapy water trick on both sides of the hose connection, and all the obvious other spots on the board, and haven't spotted anything, but still have a slow leak, grrr.. submersing the board in water is a no no I take it?

It's one of these from norm:

[GrowlingDogBeer]

I submersed mine in water. I found the leak.

[barneey]

You can take the board to bits, remove it from the base board to inspect the connections.

The board uses the Norgren regs / fittings.

First thing to check is the line between the fittings is straight and true, the push fit bits rely on a metal gripping ring to hold the pipe in place. Second area I would double check is where the "red" on / off fits into the regs, these can become worn after a while, I`ve had a few fail on me.

So if you have any John Guest 3/8 stop ends you can also isolate bits of the board (once taken apart), keep trying different bits until you find the leak, 1st one is where the gas enters the board & work from there.

[subfaction]

ok great, thanks for the help all, would it be ok to just dunk the whole thing in water to see if I can spot a leak, or do I need to take it apart before doing something along those lines?

[barneey]

Never tired the "dunk it in water" method so cant advise, I would say though if the gauges are like most pressure gauges, they will be open on the back, thereby water will get into all the "external area" workings.

I wouldn't personally dunk the board in water.

[boingy]

Definitely don't dunk it in water.

Check the push-fit connections to see if there is any sideways strain on them. I've found short lengths of line into push-fit fittings can cause exactly the type of leak you describe if the line is a bit too long or the section is not quite aligned. You can get the same problem if you try to do a tight-radius bend right next to a fitting.

I also turn off the gas between sessions.

[subfaction]

Ok thanks guys sounds like there's no shortcuts and I'll have to take it apart and test piece by piece, pita!

[barneey]

As I said Isolate half the board at a time, the 3rd pipe on the RHS feeds the rest of the board, blank that off first and see if the problem is solved. If not blank off the pipe between the top two reg valves / reopen the first area.

My bet its one of the red on/off valves at the bottom of the board, they will also pull out like a normal JG fitting.

If you get stuck for spares I do have some.

[subfaction]

Will do thanks again for the help