Brew Fridge

[DeadFall]

Interesting idea; I'd be concerned that they weren't designed for lots of continuous use and are powerful enough to be a potential safety hazard in a closed box/fridge (e.g. if the STC didn't work or was set wrongly). But It may be that I'm being too cautious; perhaps it would be okay if the noise wasn't an issue.

Cheers
Kev

Bit of research, bad idea! A computer fan would be better for moving air around and a tube heater for the warmth.

[Rick_UK]

Thanks for all the tips and info guys. I think I need to get on with the build now and report back.

One last question about wiring the STC! Do I need to wire 2 sockets from the STC and plug the fridge into one and the heater into the other? If I just wired both in directly from the STC wouldn't it just switch each source on and off as necessary? Can't see the purpose of the plugs.

[AnthonyUK]

Yeah that's fine. You only need sockets if you think you might use it on something else or don't want to mess with the standard wiring.

[Kev888]

You don't need the sockets, though there can be a few benefits in some circumstances - if you want to disconnect the heater/fridge and STC, or don't want to cut the plug off them for instance. Some people also use trailing sockets instead, if the fridge/heater cables aren't long enough (though the STC's sensor cable may be the limiting factor).

If the fridge and heater recommend different fuses then keeping their plugs can simplify that too, though you can get panel-mounting fuse holders to build into the enclosure the STC is mounted in instead. TBH I didn't bother and just used the appropriate fuse for a fridge in the main plug to serve both the fridge and heater, but perhaps that was slightly naughty.

Cheers
Kev

[Harmergeddon]

Hi Rich,

I have just fitted out a fridge with a freezer compartment simillar to yours. Its been running for a week now and seems to be working just fine. I have my temperature probe at the bottom of the compartment and the reading fluctuates from 16 degrees up to 20 and my flat is up at around 25-26 degrees during the day.

[Rick_UK]

Update

Ok chaps, brew fridge up and running well with the ATC and tube heater. Currently priming 40 bottles of Saison at 22'C only hitch is the heating isn't as even as would be ideal. The bottles nearer the heater are quite a bit warmer than the ones on the shelf below even after 24hrs. So I'm thinking adding a PC fan as per Fils suggestion.

Any tips on how best to do this? Type of fan, wiring, location etc.

Thanks lads

Rick

[Fil]

simplest solution is to recycle an old 5v or preferably 12v or anything inbetween dc powerbrick to power a pc fan or 2 pc fan wireing is black = -ve red = +5v yellow +12v, so use red n black to power if using a 5v dc brick, or yellow n black for 6-12v powerbricks..

point the fan/s at the tube heater Dont jbweld em in place like i did,, and run 24/7 moving the air in the fridge will aid cold effet as well as hot effect.

by all means jbweld or epoxy something to screw the fans to but dont epoxy the fans in place as when they die after a year or 2 its a real pita to replace em hmmmm

[Rick_UK]

Thanks Fil (again!) So basically I can just wire it into the atc power in via a dc adaptor. I'll screw it to a piece of upvc which i'll then epoxy to the fridge wall - don't fancy screwing into the fridge， I have a clear distant memory of hacking some ice off a freezer with a knife, puncturing the wall and psssssstttttt........

Will the moisture levels be an issue for the fan? I'm assuming not if it's dc power??

[Fil]

I dont think the moisture is a big issue my first pc fan in the brewfridge lasted a few years but did die eventually, #2 still ok.. if easy it might be an idea to fit a simple switch in the circuit so u can turn off the fan between brews, otherwise you will need to unplug or switch off at the wall.

[Rick_UK]

I was thinking of wiring it into the heat out circuit from the atc so it only comes on with the tube heater. Cooling seems to be more even throughout the fridge.

[Kev888]

FWIW, I found that the fan improved the cooling as well as the heating, especially at times when the fridge was working harder (there was noticeably less icing up, and the duty cycle wasn't as extended). I guess air is worse at conducting heat either in or out, if its not circulating much.

Could be worth testing though, your setup may be different, and the fan does contribute some heat so its not completely desirable.

Cheers
Kev

[Fil]

imho the air is the method of temperature change, keep it circulating and both heat and cold application will improve in efficiency and you run less risk of cycling or chasing..