any gas fitters?

[timbo41]

...If so can you help! I've been given an idea that I hope you'll help me realise. I'd like to get a coil of 10mm microbore and connect it through the boiler walls with two bulkhead fulham hose barbs, then somehow connect it to two quick release garden hose fittings......an in situ immersion chiller. Got the idea from Paul Dean on craft brewing network, whose actually building a herms! In fact it could probably be used for both,but chilling is my primary objective
But..... I'm a bit kak handed and feel a bit thick when it comes to ordering bits. Can anyone point me in right direction. As to reason why I want to do this....cos its there!!

[Fil]

EDIT Im no plumber/pipefitter ....

you could use 10 to 15mm compression fittings to exit through 20-21mm qmax punched holes wrapping well with ptfe tape and usin M20 ss washers both inside and outside to sandwich silicone baking sheet washers..
use a lot of ptfe arround the fitting where the m20 washer sits..

if using any fittings to connect to the bent tube dont bend too close to the end as the bending can deform the tube and make sealing a fitting harder

But it would ba a pita to get hop leafs off.. they managed to hide on my old IC chiller even after a good power spray with the garden hose on jet and suspended on the washing line..

if you want one from 3/4" tube i have one already coiled and with bulkheads fitted,(replacement copper water tank hex coil);)

[Aleman]

A copper coil in the HLT or boiler does not work as a Herms HEX . . .it takes too long to respond to changes in temperature . . . It's been tried so may times and not worked, that I'm surprised people keep trying with it.

Best results come from having as small volume (2-5L) of water in the HEX.

As an Inbuilt chilling coil . . . great idea as long as you can clean it all . . .it needs brushing to remove the gunk between teh outer wall and the coil though, as fil has pointed out you can't clean it with jet of water

[timbo41]

Thanks guys. Whether it works or not as a chiller I don't know but I like to mess about! And I figure using compression joints I can take the coil out for cleaning, preferably before any crap dries on.
So can I get it straight.....I make a holeand feed the hose barb thread end through, backing nutr and silicon washer both sides of wall.... Its the compression fitting from that thread to the 10 ml microbore that's throwing me size wise. I get confused as to metric and imperial threads. Surely I need a female fitting with a 10 ml compression

[Fil]

a standard 10mm to 15mm compression fitting will have a 1/2" bsp male thread on the 15mm end when the nut and olive are removed. the hex behind the thread should present enough shoulder to support an M20 Stainless washer, and a good healthy wrap of ptfe around the back of the thread/hex should seal against the m20 washer under pressure, if not remove and add 10x more wraps push that up against the inside of the pot wall

and to attatch a male hozelock to tap fitting it will have an internal 3/4" bsp thread, so to attach to the outside of the poy seal the 1/2" male thread of the compression fitting with a 3/4" to 1/2" reducing bush.

for example http://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk ... 2032-p.asp

as its tapered threads your dealing with dont skimp on the ptfe tape, and you may need bulking washers in order to seal or conversly loose one of the 2 thrust washers inside and out? the tollerances vary, but if using brass you can coax it a bit easier than you can Stainless steel. cutting a smaller 20mm hole will mean a tight fit perhaps even screwing the fittings thru the hole which can be easier to seal without a bulkhead flange..

silicone baking sheet makes a great sealing washer if needed, under cutting the inner hole sizea tad will let it hug and seal up against the male thread barrel and also undercut the external diameter as it squashes out under the sealing pressure..

[timbo41]

Thanks fil. It begins to make sense. Wish suppliers wouls standardise! Well, down to plumbase tomorrow and have a play!! Cheers. regards Tim

[lord groan]

Hi timbo,

You could make your own compression connector type thingy
If you use a flanged plug like this;
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbin ... lug/p71545

on the inside of the boiler with a 1/2" backnut outside to hold it, it just needs a washer to be water tight, then drill a 10mm hole in the plug and feed the end of the microbore through to outside, finally solder the microbore where it goes through the plug and you have exposed 10mm ends outside the boiler that you can connect any way you want.

I did this to make a thermowell for my hlt. I just had a very short bit of microbore inside the boiler crimped and soldered the open end, and bingo!

hth

[timbo41]

Nice... But the words drill and solder were used. Am inept
Not that bad actually! Just like the conveience of pre made fittings. Cheers