Boiler to get into AG?

[vacant]

The cheapo kettle elements are around 2.2kW. I find one just about keeps a rolling boil for 30 litres, 2 elements is fierce so your 2x1.5 should be just right. Though it will take a bit longer to reach a boil.

[Fil]

Don't encourage boiling with a lid on, DMS will form, always boil with the lid off.

Not that old chestnut. DMS is unlikely with modern fully modified malts.
This is another of those brewing hangovers that needs some up to date data I think.

I had it 2 years ago, has the malts changed since then, would make my boil off losses a great deal less than they are now?

WHOOPS!! should have made it clear the pre-boil with the lid on was a hlt and a bit of a boil to remove temp hardness in my water.. NOT boilling the beer with the lid on.


@ kearnage the 1.5kw elements i bought came with thru the wall grommests to seal, when first fitted the elements didnt work it took me a while to sus it was due to the bucket wall being thicker than the wall the elements were designed to fit through and consequently the power supplying back was not making contact with the element itself, the solution was/is to get a sharp razor blade and split the grommet into 2 peices... tbh i cant recall if it was the thicker or thinner resulting washer i ended up using, either way?? use the cut down washer on the inside of the bucket to seal NOT the outside..


if your wondering what the tax disk holder patch is doing, the hole needed for these elements is smaller than the common 39-40mm hole for kettle elements so i needed to patch my original element hole, as its a lot harder to make a hole smaller

If you err and ruin the grommet, dont fret as soft silicone baking sheet circa 1mm thick is a great diy washer material..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Worktop-Silic ... 462a557317

if using 2 x 1.5kw elements per bucket, and intend one to boil i would consider insulating the bucket for the boil with a jacket you can remove if you will be chilling with an IC post boil.

[kearnage]

Thanks for the tips. I'll get two of these as well.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181494007828

Now stop making me spend more money you lot. I'll be buying a full micro brewery next and my kids will go hungry while I'm out in the garage brewing.

Now there's an idea

[minesapint]

What is DMS ?

I cannot find it anywhere in my "Boys Book of Knowledge"

Cheers.

[Pinto]

What is DMS ?

I cannot find it anywhere in my "Boys Book of Knowledge"
Cheers.

DiMethyl Sulphide - gives a "corn" (sweetcorn?) flavour to the beer. One of a number of possible faults and off flavours - see here

http://www.bjcp.org/docs/Beer_faults.pdf

[minesapint]

Many Thanks Pinto.
Looking at that list of problems, I think that I have been very lucky to have had just a couple of infected brews in my brewing history.
Cheers.

[minesapint]

Is there a recognised top and bottom to these heating elements?
I ask because, after replacing the element seal on my plastic Electrim boiler, I couldn't remember which way up the element originally was.
So I fitted it with the large loop of element to the top.
My thinking, was having the bulk of the hot element away from the bottom of the plastic boiler would be better for the well being of the plastic.
I noticed that the large elements in the photos are the opposite way up to mine.
Cheers all.

[Kev888]

Many Thanks Pinto.
Looking at that list of problems, I think that I have been very lucky to have had just a couple of infected brews in my brewing history.
Cheers.

DMS 'like' flavours can indeed be caused by infection, which can muddy the waters when tracing the cause. However, the DMS we've been arg.. discussing is a factor in normal everyday brewing, and so is something which we try to keep down to levels appropriate for the style of beer - the boiler is a key tool in doing so, which is probably why its come up in this thread.

I'm no expert so I have to take it on faith but my understanding is that he grain contains an amino acid called S-Methyl Methionine (SMM), some types like lager malts can contain more, others less. During the mash and the boil the heat causes a reduction in the SMM, and DMS is produced as a result, there is also a form produced called DMSO (due to extra oxygen) which isn't so easily expelled. Boiling continues the reduction of SMM and also drives off the resulting DMS and DMSO as it is produced, it additionally causes hot break and increases the utilisation of hops - which are some reasons why achieving suitably long and vigorous boils is considered useful. Theres no need get excessive, just a decent roll to the boil indicating it is properly hot and boiling well throughout, but tea-urns or under-powered boilers that gently simmer aren't really ideal.

Cheers
kev

[Dave S]

I've just been onto Nisbet's who tell me that the 40 litre Buffalo, (CC193) is not being discontinued and the full set of spares including elements is still available. Look here. Element part code AC635. So the clearance price of £95 is still a bargain.

[Kev888]

Is there a recognised top and bottom to these heating elements?
I ask because, after replacing the element seal on my plastic Electrim boiler, I couldn't remember which way up the element originally was.
So I fitted it with the large loop of element to the top.
My thinking, was having the bulk of the hot element away from the bottom of the plastic boiler would be better for the well being of the plastic.
I noticed that the large elements in the photos are the opposite way up to mine.
Cheers all.

In general it doesn't really matter greatly provided the element isn't too close to the plastic to endanger it -(some electrim boilers used to have metal plates below it to help out). Though I would try to follow what the manufacturer intended if its a pre-made boiler.

In theory a lower element is good as it heats the wort above it more efficiently then below, but 'somewhat' raised element is good as the space below it promotes better wort circulation. In practice the short distances involved here probably wouldn't have a noticeable effect on either IMO.

Cheers
Kev

[AnthonyUK]

I've just been onto Nisbet's who tell me that the 40 litre Buffalo, (CC193) is not being discontinued and the full set of spares including elements is still available. Look here. Element part code AC635. So the clearance price of £95 is still a bargain.

There is one in the clearance section for £80 +vat. Bargain for someone.

If you are able to show me an element for sale I'd be happy. I know that the part no. is AC635 but I can't find it anywhere on their site or anywhere on the internet that has one.

Example
http://www.ascateringsupplies.com/PartW ... BD%20AC635

I have also spoken to Nisbets and the part no longer exists on their site but it did do about 6 months ago.

[Dave S]

I've just been onto Nisbet's who tell me that the 40 litre Buffalo, (CC193) is not being discontinued and the full set of spares including elements is still available. Look here. Element part code AC635. So the clearance price of £95 is still a bargain.

There is one in the clearance section for £80 +vat. Bargain for someone.

If you are able to show me an element for sale I'd be happy. I know that the part no. is AC635 but I can't find it anywhere on their site or anywhere on the internet that has one.

Example
http://www.ascateringsupplies.com/PartW ... BD%20AC635

I have also spoken to Nisbets and the part no longer exists on their site but it did do about 6 months ago.

I know it doesn't appear on the site but I was assured that all spares are available, so maybe another phone call.

[LeeH]

They are lying to you.

[kearnage]

Well after a few days thinking and then one day drinking I went and ordered the elements, temp controller plus safety switch, camping matts, all the parts I needed for my mash tun (not mentioned previously) and some taps.

Do any of you know a good place to find 1/2" bsp tank connectors? The rest of my setup is running on 1/2" bsp fittings so I thought it made sense to stick to that for ease. But I can't for the life if me find a good place to get the tank connectors for my HLT and boiler. Any help would be gladly received.

Pics will no doubt follow of the whole lot from a jigsaw of individual pieces to the completed setup (I hope).

[Kev888]

The bog standard/brass 15mm compression tank connectors usually have 1/2" BSP threads if I recall correctly (though probably worth double-checking that as its been a while!). Though if you want threads both sides you may want something different (such as a long running nipple with a couple of flange nuts).

Cheers
Kev