Outdoor brewing - electrics question

[Cully]

I will be using a buffalo boiler and a Copper kettle 60 ltr Boiler with 2x 2.4 Kw Element EB5, outdoors.. Will also have some sort of electric temp probe as well. I was planning to use my existing 4 socket extension through the window, but looking at other threads has cast some doubt in my mind as to whether it would be ok. Will I need one of these badboys instead?

http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/s2225-4 ... st=PL10043

Thanks for answering all of my stupid questions, by the way.

[AnthonyUK]

Were you seriously considering using a 4-way extension to power 1x2600w and 2x2400w elements?
Each element will require a 10A supply at least so you need a separate feed for each of them that is powered at any one time.

[weetabixface]

the extension you linked to will take a total max load of ~3kW is it isn't going to run 3 elements

it might for a short time till the insulation melts...

W

[Grumpydev]

You will need 3 of them, and make sure they are fully unwound or they will overheat. I have two, one for my Buffalo and pump, the other for my 3kW induction hob.

Oh, and obviously make sure each extension is plugged into a different socket in the house.. Don't plug them all into a single extension lead/multiplug

[AnthonyUK]

and the shorter the better

[Cully]

OK How do you tell what KW level an extension will take? Looking at my link its not obvious that it only takes 3 kw.

So if I don't intend to run both boilers at the same time, I would need ( or rather could get away with) 2 extension leads, each one 3kw rated, use one for the buffalo at the start, then one each for the elements when I boil the wort? ( All plugged in to separate sockets) Again, when looking at extensions how do I tell what KW level they will take?

/edit like 2 of these, maybe?

http://janitorialsupplies.co.uk/extensi ... tAodjCoAew

[AnthonyUK]

The maximum ANY single socket should supply is 13A so take your element wattage and divide by the voltage (240v) 2400/240 = 10A. 2600/240 = 10.8 so 11A.
All cables are rated in amps not kilowatts as this (watts) is a product of the voltage and current and UK supplies are 240v (nominally 220-240v) but I think the wattage rating is based on 240v.

You can also fit higher rated sockets such as 16A which use 'commando' connectors but will require dedicated feeds from your consumer unit much like how a cooker has a dedicated 30A supply.

If you look at the size of the cable fitted to the Buffalo your extension should use a similar gauge. If you have a Wilcos nearby you can buy a plug, socket and 1.5mm cable (size of the conductor strands) to make custom extensions for £5 which you know will be suitable.

[Cully]

Arthritic fingers - wouldn't be able to make one. Are those I listed in last post any good?

[AnthonyUK]

They seem OK but as mentioned just get the length you need.

[Grumpydev]

The ones you linked are fine, but they are only single socket so if you want to add a pump or the temp probe you will need another extension for those - also don't dismiss the value of an RCD when working outside, especially with water and heat involved.

[themadhippy]

D0 make sure theres a RCD (earth trip) fited if your taking electrickery to play outside ..Another option, safer but more expensive would be getting a 32A ceeform fitted and run a 32a extension cable to a small distro with a few 13A sockets

[Waffty]

If you're using cable extentions i.e the ones on 'dispensers' which have then coiled up, then it's important to note that the capaicty of a coiled up extention lead, is a fraction of an uncoiled extention lead. As an example, I've just installed a dedicated 16A supply for my setup, using a 16A breaker on the dis board, to a small dis board in the garage with an RCD and another 16A breaker, to a wall mounted commando socket/switch. This was all wired with 2.5mm cable which is good for 20A or 27A if it's surface clipped and not burried in the walls.

This is a half way solution, as the wider plan is to use a 32A breaker in the dis board, via 6mm air clipped cable, so should be good for the potential 32A load (buried is 34A, clipped 47A), this will go into the small dis board/RCD, then break out into 2x 16A supplies, as each will only draw 14A max, then this should be more than up the job.

When I used my old 2 element system, I would run one 2700W element off the kitchen ring main and the second element off the downstairs ring main, to ensure I wasn't putting too much load on the kitchen ring main, as there's nothing stopping someone turning on the kettle/microwave/washing machine, during a brewing cycle. Putting in a dedicated supply is a luxury by the same token, if you stray over 3000W, then you're moving outside of the capability of your humble plug and socket. Plus given our requirements, of drawing this sort of load for 90 minutes, then it may not be that much of a luxury.

[weetabixface]

Again, when looking at extensions how do I tell what KW level they will take?

reel type extensions are marked giving a maxiumum total load for both the fully wound and fully unwound situations, typically 4A (~900W) and 13A (~3kW) respectively

W

[Cully]

Doubt the council would like me adding sockets to the outside of me house Hip I have a 4 gang 13 amp extension which I can use for smal stuff - probes etc. I will just get a dedicated 9 quid one for each element. Seems the way forwards for me, anyway. And some RCD's too.

[themadhippy]

dont waste your money on rcds just yet.check your main fuseboard,has one of the things in there got a button marked"test"ot just "T"