Abbot ale kit wanted

[Jim2]

Do you know if the kit is all grain unlike the Belgium festival I done which had suger in

The kit will be made entirely with grain and the only sugar you add is a small amount of priming sugar for secondary fermentation.

I have made an error!
I have poured the priming suger into the mix
To late now to take it out!
But how was I supposed to know when the instructions did not tell me that (nor when to add the hopps too)

I truly rubbish kit in IMHO

[guypettigrew]

It'll be OK! It's only a small amount of sugar.

Just add the same amount using ordinary white sugar when you're at the priming stage.

Guy

[Jim2]

I've no idea, not made the Nelson's and the Abbot Ale I remember is from over 50 years ago. I have tasted so called Abbot since then but it was nothing like I remember, but back then it was always served straight from the barrel.

So what do you think went wrong then. Did greene decide to become mega corporation and down grade the recipe to save on cost to compete with bigger mega corporations like Carling and J.smiths or something. Or did they decide that it was far to good for us slaves and decided to give us a second class version and keep the original for our masters i.e Borris Johnson and his sausage rolls. As abbot ale seams to be the best seller on hand pump out there so I guess they never needed a super brew after all then.

Any difference to the recipe from bottle, can to cask?

[Jim2]

Jim, I think you are overthinking this. Have you tried making the Woodfordes Wherry 2 can kit? Similar style but not as strong, but you could just use less water to make it to 36 pints if you wanted.

Might be worth a try next brew for next week. Do you have a link to the woodfordes homebrew kit please as can't seem to find it myself

Woodfordes homebrew kits are stocked at pretty much all homebrew shops. For example: https://brew2bottle.co.uk/products/wood ... ns-revenge

Full range: https://brew2bottle.co.uk/products/wood ... l-ale-kits

It seems to be about £22 in most places, from a quick google.

Just looked at that link and it says it's a 32pint 5%abv. So its not a full content of 5% 40pint

You see from my perspective I have a 25litre bucket so I may as well fill it to full capacity even if it where a barley wine kit big enough to hold 40pints

This is why I like the idea of 5litre bottle concentrated LME now

[Jim2]

Back to where I was interested in going down at the start of this thread

My strong preference is to use DME rather than LME as it is a much more stable product and produces beers which are better than those made with LME without the need to boil the extract. I have found using DME avoids the typical "homebrew" twang which LME based kits often have.


boil the grains, the sugar and the boil hops (40g Fuggles & 30g Goldings) in 5L water for 30 mins.
Add some cold water to your fermenter (say 10L) then strain the liquor from the boil into the fermenter.
Add the DME (I use a kitchen whisk to get this stirred in well as it can tend to clump).
Top up to 23L with more cold water (helps to get temperature about right too)

Is DME not the barley harvested late season (November time) that puffs out all the starch that you then have to cook at right temperature to turn into suger. If so do you mean this instead of the word boil?

[Marshbrewer]

DME - dry malt extract - is a powder that you disolve in water
LME - liquid malt extract - thick syrup like substance that you add water too

Both can be used to make beer by dissolving in water, then boiling with hops to extract their bitterness, flavours and aroma

The kits that you are using already have been through the process of having hop flavour and bitterness added, this allowing you to skip the boiling stage.

[IPA]

Jim 2 you said
"is DME not the barley harvested late season (November time) that puffs out all the starch that you then have to cook at right temperature to turn into suger. If so do you mean this instead of the word boil?"

I can't help thinking that this is a very subtle windup

[clarets7]

Jim2 this thread viewtopic.php?t=73164 gives you an idea. Even that take on the original recipe seems a bit high in original gravity to me - it was always 1048 on the beer clips I saw.

[WalesAles]

I can't help thinking that this is a very subtle windup

IPA,
I was thinking that myself!
Some of his/her/it/them posts are of a similar ilk

WA

Good wind up anyway.

[Jim2]

DME - dry malt extract - is a powder that you disolve in water
LME - liquid malt extract - thick syrup like substance that you add water too

Both can be used to make beer by dissolving in water, then boiling with hops to extract their bitterness, flavours and aroma

The kits that you are using already have been through the process of having hop flavour and bitterness added, this allowing you to skip the boiling stage.

So its not malt that needs to be cooked right?
Why dose it have to be boiled? Is it to dissolve it?

[Marshbrewer]

Malt extract (by definition) has already been extracted from malt, so it doesn't need any further processing to be available to the yeast, other than disolving in water.

When making beer, the disolved malt extract is boiled for two reasons. The first is to extract bitterness, and hop flavour, from the hops that are added during the boil, and the second is that it ensures the wort is sanitary.

All of this has already been done in kits before they are concentrated down in a vacuum, so this step isn't usually required.

[MashBag]

I can't help thinking that this is a very subtle windup

How dare you suggest such a thing. Just a chap needing a bit of help

[Jim2]

When making beer, the disolved malt extract is boiled for two reasons. The first is to extract bitterness, and hop flavour, from the hops that are added during the boil, and the second is that it ensures the wort is sanitary.

So the work with DME is not really a lot then. And as someone said tastes better then LME. So you think I should go with this then? Do you know where to buy? Any cheaper then kit brewing?

Also you say you boil for sanitary. Just to muddy the waters a little, the laddy at the brew shop said you can not sanitise with hot boiling water, its a myth! She says you need a special chemical to do that.

The question was risen when I asked her about sanitising and secondary fermentation. I will be using old water and cider bottles and as soon as you put boiling water to them they shrink. How do you think I should go about doing this?

[IPA]

This is a wind up

[Marshbrewer]

Dry malt extract can be found in must homebrew shops and online. Which homebrew so was it you went to?